teamer



M. B. TEAMER Nov. 19, 19.

GOWN

v Filed oct. 11, 1958" 2 shams-sheet 2 lglo. 9.13

Patented Nov. 19, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT oFFlca Mildred n. reagier, Philadelphia, ra. Application October 11, 1938, Serial No. 234,335

4 Claimsf The object of the invention is to provide improvements in womens garments, and particularly in those types, such for instance as nightgowns and the like, which are made from single thicknesses of woven materials, as for example natural and artificial silk, cotton and linen.

Another object is to provide a garment of `this type, which will hereinafter be referred to as a nightgown, in which there are two main sub- 0 divisionsnamely, waist and skirt sections, while the waist section is further subdivided into top and belt portions.

A further object is to provide in a structure i of this class a substantially alternative form of A l5 waist, either comprising initially separate top and belt portions, or a single section in which the top and belt portions are partly attached but are otherwise separated by oppositely directed inwardly extending darts, which also permit subsequent gathering of the lower edges of the waist with respect to the adjacent edges of the belt portions.

Still another object is to provide an article of this nature in which the major portion of the skirt section comprises a. central substantially rectangular portion of straight cut, and a pair of laterally oppositely positioned gores of increasing width downwardly, that edge of each gore adjacent to said central panel being cut parallel with the warp of the fabric, thereby causing the oppositely positioned edge of the gore Ato be cut diagonally or on the bias with respect to the warp of the fabric, and the diagonal edges of the two lateral gores being connected together by .means of a seam, which is vcentrally disposed at the rear of the garment.

With the objects thus briefly stated, the invention comprises additional details of construction, which are hereinafter brought out in the following description, when read in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which Fig.

1 is aplan viewof 'the forward central'section of the skirt of the new garment: Figs. 2 and 3 are similar views of the laterally positioned skirt gores; Fig. 4 is a similar view of the top portion of the waist; Fig. 5 is a similar view oi the rear top portion of the waist: Fig. 8 `represents the forward portion of the belt: Fis'.l I represents the rear portion of the belt: Fig. 8 is a 60 plan view of the front portion of a modified form of waist section; Fig. 9 is a plan view of the rear portion of the same: Fig. 10'is a rear elevational view of the assembled garment, incudingan indication of the positions normally assumed by the neck and arms of the wearer:

Fig. 11 is a similar view of the front of the assembled garment; and Fig. 12 is a right side elevational View of the same.

Referring to the drawings, the central front panel I is provided with a slightly curved botto'm edge 2 and slightly converging upwardly extending lateral edges 3, which latter are connectedv at the top by a symmetrical irregularlyv directed edge 4, but which will not be described in detail, as the exact shape of this edgedoes o not comprise a part of the invention. Two lateral right and left hand gores 5 and 6 are provided, each of which comprises a curved bottom 1, which in the assembled garment forms a continuation of the line of curvature of the bottom 15 'l edge 2 of the panel I. Each gore has one edge 8 cut parallel with the warp of the material, which edge is finally secured to the adjacent edge 3 of the panel I and is provided also with n a diagonally, upwardly extendingV edge 9,'Which, go therefore, extends diagonally with respect to the said warp of the fabric, while these two diagonal edges are secured together at the center of the back of the nalgarment. Each gore has also a top edge Ill, which forms acontinuation in g5 the opposite directions of the corresponding edge of the front panel I. y

Referring to Fig. 4, there is here shown the upper front portion of a waist section, comprising two similar lateral portions II and I2, ini- 30 tially cut' out of a piece of fabric with their adjacent edges I3 ex'tendingparallel, thereby causing 'their laterally opposite edges I 4 to extend on the bias. Each of these last-mentioned sections II and I2 is provided with 'a curved cut- 85 out I5 for the eventual armholes of the garment, upper edges I6 for the shoulders, and lower edges I'I for the belt, While the said two waist portionsl larediagonally separated, as indicated in this Fig. 4, to provide what is known as a V-shape 40 neck between' the 'adjacent edges I3. l

In Fig. 5 is shown a single rearwaist section I8, which is cut onthe straight of the goods and having laterally opposite edges I9, which are adapted for union withthe corresponding edges 'I4 of the front portions Il and I 2,.- This -rear portion is also provided with armhole cut-` outs 2li, corresponding with the similar cut-outs" l II in Fig/4, and with upper edges 2| at the 50 shoulder, which are adapted for attachment to the respective edges I-B of the said front'portions II and I2, said shoulder edge portions being spaced apart by a V-shaped cut-out 22 for the rear of the neck portion ofthe garment. 66

2 e aaaisi while a lower edge 23 is provided for attachment to the belt portion..4

In Fig. 6 a belt portion 24 is shown as being cut upon the bias and provided with upper edges 25, which are connected with the lower edges I1 of the initially separate waist portions Il andv I2, and also with the lower edge portions 28, whichare adapted for connection with the central part of the upper edge 4 of the front panel 10 I, said belt portion 24 being also provided with laterally oppositely directed vertical edges 21. In Fig. 7 is shown the rear belt portion 28 having properly cut upper edges 29 for attachment to the lower edge 23 of the rear waist portion I8, also with downwardly directed edges` 3U for connection at its center with the upper edges I0 of the gores 5 and 6, and at its central part with the laterally opposite portions 3| of the upper edge 4 of the front panel I. The laterally opposite vertical edges 32 of this latter belt portion 28 are then connected to the corresponding edges 21 of the front belt portion 24.

When the several sections of fabric are'cut, as hereinbefore described with respect to Figs. 1 25 to '7, and are properly assembled, there is provided a garment substantially as indicated in Figs. 10, 11 and 12, wherein it will be noted that that portion of the waist 33 which covers the breast is gathered at its lower edge, which 80 indicates the reason for the lower edges l1 oi' the waist sections II and I2 being longer than the adjacent edges 25 of the forward belt portion 24, so that when the edges I'l are gathered,

they thereafter approximate in length the said belt edges 25.

Referring to Figs. 8 and 9, there are here shown front and back portions 34 and 35, the front and rear. respectively, of a modified form of a waist section. 'Ihe front section 34 consists of an up- 40 per portion, which in turn comprises similar lateral portions 35a, which are integral with lower, oppositely directed waist portions 36. These' waist portions are initially of less lateral extent than the superimposed portions 35, and are sepa- 45 rated from the latter by means of diagonallyinwardly and upwardly extending darts 31, thereby permitting the opposite edges of the respective darts to be stitched together, after the upper edge of each is gathered so as to be of the same length 50 as the lower edge, thereby providing a naturally formed pair of laterally disposed breastportions of the finished garment, This modified front portion is also provided with a V-shape neck opening 38, upper shoulder edges 39, arm cut-outs 55 40 and laterally directed edges 4I and 42, the lastmentioned edges 42 being those of the belt portion 36.

A modified form of back portion is shown inv Fig. 9, individual parts being represented by the 60 same numerals as those used upon the front portion shown in Fig. 8, but each numeral being primed and progressing from 35' to 42', and this back portion, like the front, being also cut on the bias and when properly assembled with its corre- 65 sponding edgessewed together, resulting -in the formation of a waist section very similar to the corresponding portions shown in Figs. 4 and 5,v

except for the bias arrangement of the fabric eX- tending throughout the entire waste portion, in-

70 stead of only in the belt and forward waist portions in the form first described. 'Y

In each type of garment hereinbefore described,

-the lines of joinder between the waist, belt and skirt sections are definitely irregularlydirected 75 with respect to the horizontal, in order to permit unrestrained stretching of the bias-cut belt section circumferentially, whether both the waist and skirt sections are cut on the straight, as shown in Figs. 1 to '7, inclusive, or when a waist cut on the bias, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9, is used 6 in the same garment with the straight-cut skirt of Figs. 1 to 3, inclusive.

summarizing the advantages of the present improved form of nightgown, or similar garment, the same can best be understood and appreciated l0 by comparing this new product with the former well-known types of straight-cut and bias-cut gowns. y

The older straight-cut gown cannot under any circumstances be form iitting without providing 15 an opening upon one side in order for the wearer to put the gown on, whereas openings are entirely unsatisfactory as they involve buttons, snap fasteners, hooks and eyes, so-called Zippers, and the like, all of which cause discomfort when the 20 wearer turns and lies upon them. On the other hand, if not form tting, the so-called straightcut gown is not wide enough for comfort, unless it is constructed so large from top to bottom as to be shapeless, while this type is also extremely 25 limited as to the number of styles which it may assume.

The bias-cut gowns are form -tting without a side opening, but are .characterized by a cons stant tendency to ride up the body of the wearer with each and .every movement, unless made extremely wide in the skirt section, but which latter provision requires a large amount of material and can only be employed in the most expensive gowns. Also gowns which are cut strictly and entirely on the bias tend to fray at their seams, and if not very carefully cut, twist about the body of the wearer to such an extent as to result in amarked degree of discomfort.

By comparison, the new design or construction herein described combines the best qualities of both the straight-cut and bias-cut types, as it includes a bias-cut belt which makes it form tting without an opening; a straight-cut skirt, which makes it wider than either the straight- 45 cut gowns or the ordinary well cut bias gowns, giving comfort and preventing twisting upon the wearer; requires a relatively small amount of material, which gives it an advantage over other types of gowns, as this enables it to be made relatively cheaper and still provide increased comfort; permits the waist top and bias belt to be so arranged-and cut as to their minor details, as to make possible the gown assuming many styles with either high or low neck, high or low waist line, and either with or without sleeves. l

Having thus described my invention, what I claimas new and desire to protect by Letters Patent of 'the United States is:

1. A womans unitary substantially form-iitting garment of woven fabrlethroughout, having no waistline closure openings and fastenings, comprising waist, belt and skirt sections, said beltV section being of non-uniform width, cut on the bias and extending fully around the garment, to closely fit the natural 'waist line and its curvature, to permit and to localize elasticity of the garment horizontally about the waist line, and suiiiciently yieldable to permit said skirt section to be slipped over shoulders and bust and thereafter resume its initial predetermined circumferential measurement under the weight of said skirt section, said skirt section being cut on the straight, snugly conforming to the curvature of the body of the wearer from waist line to hip line and being relatively non-stretchable, said skirt section being joined to the lower edge of said belt section by means of a seam, the line of joinder of said belt and skirt sections extending irregularlyI with respect to the horizontal, the irregularity of said joining line permitting unrestrained stretching of said bias-cut belt section. u

2. A womans unitary substantially form-fitting garment of woven fabric throughout, having no waistline closure openings and fastening means, comprising initially ,independent waist, belt and skirt sections, said belt section being of non-uniform Width, cut on the bias and extending fully around the garment, to closely nt 4the natural waist line and its curvature, to permit and to localize elasticity of the garment horizontally about the waist line, and sufliciently yieldable to permit said waist and skirt sections to be slipped over shoulders and bust and thereafter resum'e its initial predetermined circumferential measurement under the weigh-tof said skirt section, said waist and skirt sections being cut on the straight, snugly conforming to the curvature of the body of the wearer from waist line to bust and hip lines respectively and being relatively-non-stretchable, said waist and skirt sections being joined to the upper and lower edges respectively of said belt section by means of:

seams, -the lines of joinder of said waist and skirt sections, respectively, extending irregularlyl with respect to the horizontal, the irregularity of said joining lines permitting unrestrainedl stretching of said bias-cut belt section.

3. A womans unitary substantially form-fitting garment of woven fabric throughout, having no waistline closure openings and fastening means, comprising integral,- initially partially` severed, bias-cut waist and belt sections and an initially independent straight-cut skirt section, said belt section being of non-uniform width, extending fully around the garment and closely tting the natural waist line and its curvature, to permit and to localize elasticity of th'e garment horizontally about the waist line, and su'iciently yieldable to permit said skirt section lto be slipped over shoulders and bust and thereafter resume its initial predetermined circumferential measurement underv the weight o1 said skirt section, said y skirt section being cut on the straight, snugly conforming to the curvature of ,the body ofthe wearer from waist line to hip line and being relatively non-stretchable, the adjacent partially severed portions of said waist and belt sections and the lower edge of said belt section and upper edge of said skirt section being joined-together by means of seams, the lines of joinder of said belt section to said waist and skirtsections, respectively, extending irregularly with respect to th horizontal, the irregularity of said joining lines permitting unrestrained stretching of said bias-cut belt section.

:4. A womans unitary substantially form-tting garment of woven fabric throughout, havingv no waistline closure openings and fastenings,

'and sufficiently yieldable to permit said skir-t 'section to be slipped over shoulders and bust and thereafter resume its initial predetermined circumferential measurement under the weight of said skirt section, said skirt section being cut on the straight, snugly conforming to Ithe curvature of the body of the wearer from waist line to` hip line and being relatively non-stretchable, said skirt section being joined to Ithe lower edge of said belt section by means of a seam, the line of .joinder of said belt and skirt sections extending irregularly with respect to the horizontal, the irregularity of said joining line permitting unrestrained stretching of said bias-cut belty section, said skirt section comprising a central gore having its medial line on the straight thread of the goods and its vertical edges cut slightly diagonally, and two laterally positioned gores, said gores having one edge cut on the straight-and the opposite edge cut diagonally, said diagonal edges edges of said lateral gores being joined together along a central vertical seam.

MILDRED n. 'IEAMER 

